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What does it mean when a barometer is rising or falling?

A barometer measures air pressure: A "rising" barometer indicates increas­ing air pressure; a "falling" barometer indicates decreasing air pressure.

In space, there is a nearly complete vacuum so the air pressure is zero. On Earth, because there are many miles of air molecules stacked up and exerting pressure due to the force of gravity, the pressure is about 14.7 pounds per square inch at sea level (see this page for a good explanation of atmospheric pressure).

The interesting thing about air pressure is that it is different at different points on the planet and it changes over time. Why might that be? If you've read How Hot Air Balloons Work, you know that hot air is less dense (lighter) than cooler air. Therefore, on any given day you would expect the air over a desert to­ have a lower pressure than the air over an ice cap. And that would be true. These same sort of pressure differences occur all over the planet for various reasons.

These pressure differences have a big effect on the weather, so if you know the current air pressure at your house, as well as the pressure trend, you are able to predict certain things about the weather. As a very loose rule, a high-pressure area will be clear, and a low-pressure area will be cloudy and rainy.


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GPS barometric altimeters - a treatise

Premium Member
Group:+Premium Members
Posts:27
Joined:20-July 08
Posted 03 January 2010 - 05:03 PM

I started compiling a response to another post and it turned into a full-fledged overview of GPSr barometric altimeters, so here it is. If there are inaccuracies or errors, please let me know. This was mostly an effort for me to learn what they heck these things are and how to properly calibrate them.

Barometric Pressure and Altimeters

Modern GPS receivers (GPSr) often include a barometric altimeter. Barometric pressure is essentially a measurement of the weight of the air above a given point. When a high pressure weather system is in the area, barometric goes up because the air is more dense or heavier - this is what pushes the rain clouds away. Low barometric pressure usually means more clouds. Barometric pressure is typically reported in inches of Mercury (e.g., 29.92 inHg) or in millibars (e.g., 1013.25 millibars).

A barometric altimeter is tool that measures the amount of air pressure at that location. A GPSr with a barometric altimeter can provide more accurate elevation data (sometimes within 10 feet or so) than it can obtain from using the GPS satellites alone (sometimes within 100 feet or so - yes, elevation accuracy from satellites kinda sucks, and it gets worse as your elevation increases because you're closer to the satellites making it harder to determine your distance from them).

A GPSr with a barometric altimeter knows that if the pressure decreases, that there is less air above it. Thus one of two things has occurred - either the GPSr has moved to a higher elevation OR the natural barometric pressure for that location has decreased due to weather changes. The problem is that the GPSr doesn't know which has occurred.

Altimeter Calibration

To get accurate elevation readings, the GPSr must be calibrated so it can equate a pressure reading to an elevation.

There are four ways to calibrate the GPSr barometric altimeter:
1. Enter the KNOWN elevation when your barometric pressure is unknown.
2. Use the GPS-calculated elevation when your barometric pressure is unknown.
3. Enter the ADJUSTED barometric pressure when your elevation is unknown.
4. Let the GPS-calculated elevation help auto-calibrate the barometric altimeter over time.

Method #1 tells the GPSr that the currently measured barometric pressure in the GPSr is what should be expected for that exact elevation.

Method #2 does the same thing, except that it uses the rather inaccurate (+/- a couple hundred feet) GPS-calculated elevation.

Method #3 allows the GPSr to determine the current, accurate elevation by determining the difference between the measured pressure in the unit and the sea-level adjusted pressure you provide.

Once the GPSr has a good idea of what the accurate elevation is for the internally measured pressure, changes in pressure can more accurately be represented as increases or decreases in elevation. For example, a pressure change of .01 inch of mercury as measured by the internal barometer equates to ~10 feet of elevation change.

But, your GPSr assumes that the the only thing that changes pressure is it moving higher or lower - it ignores the fact that weather also affects pressure. Thus, if the atmospheric pressure around you changes, your elevation accuracy will suddenly be out of whack. This means you should only calibrate your altimeter using pressure or elevation if you want increased accuracy over short periods of time (shorter if the weather/pressure changes) and if you'll remain within a small geographic area (because changing locations is more likely to result in an atmospheric pressure change).

So which calibration method is best?

Methods #1 (known elevation) or #3 (known pressure) arguably provide the same level of accuracy, though using a known elevation is typically better because it is a finer value than the measures used for barometric pressure. Either way, the calibration values should only be entered outdoors, out of the wind (which can arguably affect barometer readings), and once your GPSr has been on, immobile, and well established for some time. All GPS altimeters require good GPS reception AND accurate pressure readings. Using the GPS altimeter in your car or indoors will not result in high accuracy - and could result in VERY poor accuracy (e.g., 1000's of feet off).

Letting the GPS auto-calibrate the altimeter is BY FAR the easiest - and by far the most accurate over long periods of time or distance or weather. This method uses the GPS-computed elevation to hone in on a 'best-guess' elevation and then uses the altimeter to help maintain accuracy and consistency of the displayed elevation over time. Most units recalibrate every 15 minutes using this method. Once your GPS location is well established, the accuracy of auto-calibrated altimeter readings are only slightly less accurate than manually calibrated readings. The advantage of auto-calibration is that you can be assured that natural pressure changes are not distorting elevation readings over time.

In short, there really are very few advantages to manual calibration over auto calibration. Perhaps the only notable advantages are increased accuracy within a short period of time after proper calibration and that most manually calibrated GPSr units can provide high accuracy almost immediately after turning them on - you don't have to wait for the unit to establish your position before getting a highly accurate elevation reading (e.g., the unit can read the barometric pressure much faster than it can triangulate your position).

If you calibrate your GPS altimeter with known pressure or known elevation, you must turn off "Auto-calibrate" function in your GPS otherwise it will ditch your entered value and go back to the best-guess GPS elevation in a matter of minutes. Most units prompt you to turn this off after manual calibration. But be sure to turn this function back on later otherwise the reported elevations will likely be WAY off because the pressure will likely have changed.

Some tips on using pressure calibration

If you choose to calibrate using a known pressure value, be sure to use sea-level adjusted pressure readings (sometimes referred to as ASL, MSL, or elevation adjusted). You can get these from local weather reports and from airport METAR reports. METAR reports for your local airport are available here - just find the numbers after the A and put a decimal point in the middle. For example, my local airport METAR contains A3035, so my current sea-level adjusted pressure is 30.35 - or 30.35 inches of mercury. METAR and weather station pressure values are typically accurate for perhaps 100 miles from the reporting station/airport (naturally less if the weather is changing).

Your GPSr expects an elevation adjusted pressure. The pressure can typically be entered in inches of Mercury (inHg) or in millibars.

If you're using a home weather kit, barometer, or get the pressure from another GPS system or weather station data feed, these will typically NOT report elevation or sea-level adjusted pressures. Using these values will cause great inaccuracies - higher inaccuracies the higher your elevation. Because one inch of change in mercury represents ~1000 feet of elevation, if you live at 5000 feet elevation, your elevation adjusted pressure might be 30.10 inches, but a barometer would probably show a local (unadjusted) pressure of 25.10 inches. If you enter 25.10 inches into your GPS, elevations shown on your GPS will be off by 5000 feet!!!

Some tips on using elevation calibration

The optimal method for calibrating using a known elevation is to use an elevation benchmark. Go to Geocaching > Benchmark Hunting and enter your zip code and try to find a benchmark you could use (U.S. only). Be sure to look for one that has recently been found in good shape (has a smiley face icon) and that has an adjusted (e.g., very accurate) elevation (check the description for "Altitude is ADJUSTED"). Benchmark elevations are VERY accurate - usually within a few 1/10s of an inch - pretty remarkable considering most were placed in the 20's and 30's.

Because the GPS unit itself is only accurate to within 10 or so feet of elevation at very best, you may be just as well off using a good topographic map or even Google Earth to determine your location's elevation for calibration. One good method is to use a benchmark initially then use that to determine your home's elevation - then use this elevation to calibrate your unit each time you leave home. Be sure to measure an elevation outdoors - taking it inside or calibrating inside will ruin your accuracy.

GPS altimeters and aircraft altimeters

It is important to note that airplane altimeters and GPS altimeters may vary a lot except when on the ground. One reason is that the airplane altimeter uses the pressure at some nearby airport to provide a basis by which the elevation is determined. This is why pilots are constantly updating the pressure setting on their altimeter - not only to ensure accuracy for when they land or fly over local terrain, but also so that their pressure setting is the same as every other plane's in the immediate vicinity.

When you're flying at 15,000 feet, the pressure will be significantly lower than at the airport below because there is less air above you than the airport (just like the local, unadjusted pressure at Denver is much lower - ~5 inches of mercury lower - than at sea level). But you want all airplanes in the immediate area to have one uniform pressure setting in their altimeters - otherwise you could risk collisions. One plane flying at an indicated altitude of 15,000 feet with a pressure setting of 29.75 and another plane with an indicated altitude of 14,000 feet but a pressure setting of 30.52 will be MUCH closer in ACTUAL altitude than 1000 feet.

Planes flying above 18,000 feet tend to fly faster and thus use a standard pressure setting of 29.92 so that all planes up there are reporting the same indicated altitude and don't have to update their pressure settings every few minutes as the pressure at the ground changes below them. Because of this standard setting, a plane flying at 35,000 feet with a standard pressure setting of 29.92 might actually be flying much higher or much lower than 35,000 feet above sea level. All that pilots care about is that what they think is a certain altitude is the same as what everyone around them thinks. They only care about really accurate altitude when landing.

If you take a GPS on your flight (make sure it's OK with your airline before using it in-flight!), you'll notice that the GPS elevation and the reported airplane altitude may vary a lot. Also note that GPS elevation accuracies decrease slightly as you gain elevation.

Oh, and be sure to disable your GPSr barometric altimeter on a pressurized plane or the results will be, well, WAY off.

This post has been edited by apollosmith: 03 January 2010 - 05:27 PM

GPS barometric altimeters - a treatise - Groundspeak Forums










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Choosing a Recreational GPS Unit

This article is a look at some things to consider when buying a GPS. The focus is GPS for outdoor recreational (or commercial) activities. All the examples are Garmin units, as this company's products are by far the most popular in New Zealand. In this article we mention specific GPS units as examples. Use these as points of reference. Keep in mind that new models are appearing constantly and units not mentioned here may suit your needs.

When choosing technology, the path to success is starting with a clear idea of what you want to do. There is probably no perfect GPS for you. There is going to be a combination of features that you want that no GPS satisfies.



Garmin Colorado, Oregon and GPSMAP 60CSx

What do you want it for?

Tramping & Hunting. You want a small, robust, light, waterproof unit with good battery life. Units that can display topomaps and street maps are very popular, but the non-mapping models are cheaper. There are also specialised hunting models that have GPS collars for your dogs so you can track their location.

Geocaching. Models like the Garmin Colorado or Oregon models, with built-in paper-less geocaching features will probably appeal. Though any outdoor GPS can be used.

Street driving & 4WD. Vehicle navigation models feature large screens and touch-screen controls. These units are usually not waterproof or drop-proof. On foot, they are suitable for urban navigation. Unless they are ruggedised, they are not recommended for tramping. If you mostly want it for driving, 4WD, a waterproof unit like the Garmin Nuvi 500 might be a good compromise. Take a close look at the features though. You can load waypoints into most vehicle units, but many of them don't record tracks for later download. Also most of the vehcile units don't allow you to upload a track from you rPC into the units.

Biking. There are specialised biking units with cadence and heart-rate sensors and training features. For mountain biking any outdoor unit will probably do fine. Many units have a handle-bar mount as an accessory - keep in mind these expose the GPS to a fair amount of vibration.

Use with a computer for real-time tracking. The GPS choice depends on the software being used on the computer. Most software will support NMEA protocol. NMEA protocol is used by most serial port, USB "mouse" style and Bluetooth GPS units. Look for units with high-sensitivity receivers like the SiRF-III chipset. Bluetooth GPS's are conveniently wireless, but USB and serial GPS units are less fiddly to set up and use. Some software, like our own MapToaster Topo/NZ also supports the proprietary Garmin protocol used by their outdoor units.

You'll probably have a mix of these activities, but the primary use will push your choice to one particular category of device.

Checklist

Once you have decided how you want to use your GPS, build a checklist of features. Here are a few things to consider:

Sensitivity. If you plan on using the GPS under tree canopy or in a car in areas with tall buildings, you will want a GPS with a high-sensitivity GPS chipset. SiRF-III is a common chipset, but there are others. Pretty much all the units available now will have high-sensitivity GPS chipsets and at least 12-channel receiver, but you should check the specfications. The cheapest GPS units often don't have high-sensitivity receivers - we don't recommend these unless you're on a tight budget.

Mapping capability. Having topomaps and street maps showing on the GPS makes navigation much easier.

Storage for maps. Does the GPS have a slot for an external memory card? If you want to load topomaps on the unit, you will need the ability to load maps on a microSD or SD card. Some GPS units have only limited built-in memory. Topomaps require a lot of storage, so limited memory and no microSD means that you will ony be able to load maps from part of New Zealand at a time, e.g. load the maps for a particular tramp.

Voice prompts. Some vehicle navigation units feature spoken prompts to guide you through your route. Most of the Garmin outdoor units can provide street navigation, but only provide on-screen directions and beep when you approach a turn.

Bluetooth hands-free. Many of the vehicle navigation GPS units have Bluetooth. This allows you to connect the GPS to your cellphone and use it as the microphone and speaker for hand-free calls. Many vehicle navigation maps have built-in business directories and you can use the bluetooth connection to dial the call to the business, from your GPS.

Car/bike mounts. Does the model have the mounting accessories that you need?

External antenna connector. If you are using the unit in a boat or vehicle you may want to be able to connect an external antenna.

External power connection. In a vehicle you'll want to be able to run the GPS with the screen backlight on continuously. An external power connector is essential for this as internal batteries wont last long.

Waterproof. If you're going tramping, you need a waterproof GPS. We sometimes get asked about using a vehicle navigation GPS or smartphone for outdoor navigation. While putting it in an Otterbox will keep it dry, it will be hard to use. If you rely on a plastic bag or pack to keep one of these devices dry, sooner or later it will end in tears.

Screen. Big enough/easy to read, backlight brightness. Check in bright sun. Bigger screens are desirable for vehicle navigation.

Internal compass and altitude sensor. A basic GPS unit can only show direction when when you are moving. Some GPS units also have an electronic compass and can display direction when stationary. Also a barometric sensor provides more accurate altitude tracking. They cost a bit more, but we think it's worth it.

Battery life. Battery life can vary a great deal depending on the model and how you use it. In terms of weight, you need to think about the battery life and the number of spare batteries you'll need for a typical trip.

Do I need to buy maps as well? Street navigation units are usually sold with New Zealad maps included. Maps are typically an extra for outdoor units. When buying topomaps, you should buy them on CDROM, rather than on microSD card, as you will need a CDROM versions to load maps from multiple sources at the same time, e.g. topomaps, street maps and marine maps.

Size and weight. There's not a lot of variation in weight in the outdoor units. The ones in our list below are all between 150 and 260 grams.

Coordinate systems. For outdoor use in New Zealand, your unit should support three coordinate systems: NZ Map Grid, NZ Transverse Mercator and WGS-84 lat/long. NZ Map Grid is used for the the NZMS260 and other topographical maps. The coordinate system for general mapping is being changed to NZ Transverse Mercator and from Sep 2009, this will be the coordinate system for printed topomaps.

Track recording. Handheld GPS units can usually record your track. There are many options for how frequently you can save your position. The GPS also has limited storage for track data. Most of the GPS Garmin units have a limit of 10,000 track points. If you're away for a week or two and don't have the opportunity to download tracks to a computer this may not be enough. The eTrex and GPSMap 60 series GPS uits can archive up to 20 tracks to save storage, but the date/time information is lost during archiving and the track points are thinned. If detailed track recording for an extended period of time is important, take a look at the Garmin Oregon and Colorado models. They have automatic archiving and the archives are preserve the timestamps and all the track points.

Price. Obviously a factor. One way to simplify the bewildering array of GPS choices is to start with a price range and then see if you can find a model that meets your needs. Don't forget to factor in the cost of the topomaps, street or marine maps that you may want.

Examples

The following are a few suggestions from the Garmin range for outdoor use. They cover the range from the most basic non-mapping to the most capable mapping units. The list is confined to high-sensitivity models. The battery life figures are taken from Garmin specs - remember that actual battery life may vary depending on the type of battery and various GPS settings. The prices are typical street prices in NZ dollars at the time of writing.

<table class="featTable" border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td>Model</td> <td align="center">Maps</td> <td align="center">Compass/Alti</td> <td align="center">Screen</td> <td>Battery</td> <td>Price</td> </tr> <tr> <td>eTrex H</td> <td align="center">no</td> <td align="center">no</td> <td align="center">64x128</td> <td>17 hrs</td> <td align="right">$200</td> </tr> <tr> <td>eTrex Legend HCx</td> <td align="center">yes</td> <td align="center">no</td> <td align="center">176x220</td> <td align="center">25 hrs</td> <td align="right">$500</td> </tr> <tr> <td>eTrex Vista HCx</td> <td align="center">yes</td> <td align="center">yes</td> <td align="center">176x220</td> <td>25 hrs</td> <td align="right">$550</td> </tr> <tr> <td>GPSMap 62s</td> <td align="center">yes</td> <td align="center">yes</td> <td align="center">160x240</td> <td>20 hrs</td> <td align="right">$600</td> </tr> <tr> <td>GPSMap 60CSx</td> <td align="center">yes</td> <td align="center">yes</td> <td align="center">160x240</td> <td>18 hrs</td> <td align="right">$600</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Oregon 450</td> <td align="center">yes</td> <td align="center">yes</td> <td align="center">240x400</td> <td>15 hrs</td> <td align="right">$750</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Oregon 550</td> <td align="center">yes</td> <td align="center">yes</td> <td align="center">240x400</td> <td>16 hrs</td> <td align="right">$850</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Nuvi 500</td> <td align="center">yes</td> <td align="center">yes</td> <td align="center">240x320</td> <td>16 hrs</td> <td align="right">$600</td> </tr> </tbody></table>

The Garmin Oregon series outdoor units have larger screens and would be a good compromise for in-vehicle and tramping use. The Garmin GPSMAP 60 and Garmin GPSMAP 62 series could have smaller screens, but are probably better suited to heavy-duty outdoor use. For in-vehicle use, any of the Garmin Nuvi units should be considered. Navman and Tom Tom are also popular.



Garmin Nuvi 500 and Oregon GPS

Finally, Google is a great resource of reviews and opnions on specific models.

Safety

GPS units can fail. They can get dropped, drowned or lost and batteries go flat. If you're in steep country under a dense tree canopy the GPS may not get a lock. So if you plan to use the GPS for navigation in the wilderness, you should also take a paper maps and a compass as a backup and know how to use them.

Copyright © 2009-2011 Integrated Mapping Ltd. All Rights Reserved. This article may not be reproduced without permission. Garmin is a trademark of Garmin Corporation.


A Guide to Choosing/Buying a Recreational GPS - maptoaster.com


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31 สิงหาคม 2555 19.00น. บริเวณลานจอดรถโรบินสันเชียงใหม่

 

ถามประดับความรู้ครับ
ถ้ามี poleshift จริง แล้ว GPS
มันจะมีประโยชน์หรือไม่ อย่างไร ครับ

 

ถ้าเกิด Pole shift และมี GPS ก็สามารถไปตามแผนที่ได้ครับ
โดยใส่ way point ต่างๆ ตามแผนที่ GPS สามารถบอกเส้นทางเราได้เอง เพราะ GPS ใช้ดาวเทียมหลายดวงหาจุดตัดบอกตำแหน่งบนโลก ยิ่งมีดาวเทียมมากดวง ตำแหน่งยิ่งถูกต้องมากขึ้น แต่ GPS บางรุ่นก็ออกแบบมาให้ใช้ร่วมกับสนามแม่เหล็กโลกเพื่อให้คนไม่หลงทิศ แต่ก็สามารถเลือกที่จะใช้ลูกโดดหรือ GPS อย่างเดียวได้
ภ้าเป็นการบินข้ามขั้วโลก เขาจะใช้เครื่องมืออื่นที่ไม่ต้องการเข็มทิศเพราะใกล้ขั้วโลกใช้เข็มทิศไม่ได้ เนื่องจากยิ่งใกล้ขั้วโลกเข็มทิศจะผิดพลาดมาก (error) สมัยก่อนใช้เครื่องมือเรียก Inertia Navigation System เป็นเครื่องมือที่ใช้ระบบคอมพิวเตอร์วัดแรงเฉื่อยบอกค่าทิศทางว่าขณะนี้อยู่ตรงไหน โดยใส่ way point แต่ละจุดไปตามแผนที่ ต่อมาก็ใช้เครื่องนำทางจากดาวเทียมซึ่งเรียกย่อๆ ว่า GPS (Global Positioning System) เผื่อว่าถ้าดาวเทียมเสียอีก ก็คงต้องพึ่งการดูดาวเหนือละครับ จะอยู่ตรงไหน ก็ดูดาวเหนือแล้วมาปรับเปลี่ยนทิศทางเอาได้ เหมือนนักเดินเรือสมัยโบราณ จะได้ไม่ตกโลก
สนใจต้องศึกษา

เรื่อง จีพีเอส ปัจจัยที่หกของนักเดินทาง เห็นมีเรื่องของ “การ์มิน” ข้างบนเลยเอามาลงเป็นน้ำจิ้ม
การติดตั้งเครื่องรับจีพีเอสของการ์มินบนหน้าปัดรถยนต์จะใช้ฐานสามประเภท ประเภทแรกติดตั้งบนหน้าปัดรถโดย
ใช้แผ่นกาวให้มาสองชนิด ชนิดถาวรเป็นแผ่นพลาสติกบางสีดำและชนิดลอกออกได้เป็นแผ่นยางนิ่ม แนะนำว่าให้ใช้
เฉพาะรุ่นลอกออกได้ เพราะรุ่นถาวรมันถาวรจริงๆ หากมีความจำเป็นต้องถอดฐาน ผิวหน้าของหน้าปัดของคุณจะ
ลอกหลุดติดออกมาด้วย แผ่นยางชนิดติดชั่วคราวมั่นคงแข็งแรงเพียงพอครับ เพยาว์ศรีติดอยู่หน้ารถ ตากแดดตาก
ฝนมาหลายปียังคงอยู่ปกติสุขดี ถึงเวลาจำเป็นต้องลอกก็สามารถทำได้โดยไม่สร้างความเสียหายให้กับฐานหรือหน้า
ปัดรถ
เป็นภาษาไทยเลย ไม่ค่อยขยันตัดแปะและไม่ค่อยขยันเขียน ส่ง Link ให้ดูแล้วกันครับไปที่นี่เลย
http://www.thailandoutdoor.com/OutdoorGear/GPS/GPS_Part3/gps_part3.html
หรือ
มาแล้วครับ... "eTrex Legend" ..GPS รุ่นล่าสุดจาก garmin
แถมภาษาอังกฤษเอาไว้ฝึกทำความคุ้นเคยนะ
Inertial navigation system - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

ยังไม่ไพอใจครับต้องฝีกการเรียนการเดินทางด้วยเทห์วัตถุม้องฟ้า Celestial Navigation
ไปที่นี่ครับ Celestial Navigation

จะให้เร็วก็ต้องหาดาวเหนือให้เป็น ไปที่
กลุ่มดาวหมีใหญ่ เป็นกลุ่มดาวสำคัญ ช่วยชี้หาดาวเหนือได้ โดยไล่จากขาหน้าขวา (βUMa) ไปทางขาหน้าซ้าย (αUMa) เลยออกไปอีกประมาณ 5 ช่วง นอกจากกลุ่มดาวหมีใหญ่ ยังมีอีกกลุ่มที่ใช้หาดาวเหนือได้คือ กลุ่มดาวแคสซิโอเปีย หรือดาวค้างคาว
คัดลอกมาจาก กลุ่มดาวหมีใหญ่ - วิกิพีเดีย



ดาวเหนือเป็นดาวที่ขั้วโลกเหนือบังเอิญชี้ไปที่ดาวดวงนั้นพอดี ดาวเหนือในปัจจุบันมีชื่อว่า ดาว"โพลาลิส" ขั้วโลกเหนือชี้ไปที่ดาวเหนือพอดี ดาวเหนืออยู่เหนือขอบฟ้าตรงไหน ตรงนั้นคือทิศเหนือ

ขอให้ท่านที่ยังต้องเดินทางโชคดี ส่วนผมปักหลักแล้ว ได้ที่ดีแล้ว ไม่เดินทางแล้วครับ หรือถ้าจะเดินทาง ก็จะเดินทางด้วยระบบ IFR หรือ I folow the road or river เดินทางสุ่มสี่สุ่มหก เข้าป่าแน่นอน

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyRpBgLeYGg]finding the north star - YouTube[/ame]

 

มีพลังงานสัญญาณเมฆเตือนภัยแผ่นดินไหวทางทิศตะวันขึ้น เมื่อเช้าวันที่9ก.ย.55 คาดว่าขนาดปานกลาง ถึง ค่อนข้างรุนแรง และทางทิศใต้มีกลุ่มเล็ก...ต้องระวัง จีน ใต้หวัน ญี่ปุ่น..และ อินโดนีเซีย ครับ

 

เริ่มเขย่าแล้วนะครับที่อินโดนีเซีย อินเดีย สองครั้งซ้อน พล้งจากรูปยังไม่หมดครับ...ท่านFALKMAN..ครับเพจนี้มีประโยชน์ในการดูประกอปการเตือนแผ่นดินไหวน่า.ที่จะอยู่ข้างบนหน้าแรกนะครับ

 

ขออนุญาตแจมด้วยคน...ภาพถ่ายพระอาทิตย์เมื่อเช้าวันที่ 12 กันยายน 2555 เวลาประมาณ 08.00 น. กว่า ขอความคิดเห็นด้วยว่าคุณเห็นอะไรในภาพเหล่านี้กันบ้าง???

 

สัญญาณฟ้าเตือนภัยแผ่นดินไหวเย็นวันที่ 24ก.ย.55 ทางทิศตะวันตก ถ่ายที่สนามกีฬาธูปเดมีย์ครับ

 

ขอบคุณที่ให้ความกระจ่าง...(โล่งอก...: )

 

ภาพเมฆสวย ๆ เมื่อสักครู่ ทางทิศตะวันตก ของ อ.เมืองชุมพร

ไม่เคยเห็นเมฆในสภาพแบบนี้มาก่อนเลย แปลกดี

ภาพเมฆที่เป็นปุยสีขาว ที่มี 2 ภาพ จะเป็นลักษณะ ก่อนและหลังจากสะท้อนแสง

รัศมีของเมฆ ประมาณ 3 กิโล น่าจะได้ครับ

 

เมื่ออานุภาคนาโนเคมเทลที่ปะปนอยู่กับเมฆกระทบกับแสง มันจะเปล่งประกายเป็นสีต่างๆสวยงาม ...แต่ร้ายพิลึก



เมื่อพ่นเสร็จใหม่ๆ ยังเกาะกลุ่ม



สักพักใหญ่จะแตกตัวกลายเป็นเมฆ

....ส่วนหนึ่งเมื่อถูกฝนชะล้างมันก็ตกลงสู่พื้นโลก สู่แม่น้ำ ลำคลอง ต้นไม้ และอากาศที่เราหายใจ.

 

นายตัวร้าย...!!!!และพวกอีกบาน ตัวทำลายโลก

 

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และสิ่งนี้



และอีกเพียบ...บบบบ
...ไปดูเพิ่มเติมที่นี่ก็ได้ครับhttp://www.facebook.com/groups/CHEMTARAILthailand/

 

รวบรวมภาพเมฆมาเพื่อศึกษา ส่วนหนึ่ง..ที่ตามเก็บมาได้




นักวิทยาศาสตร์เตือน Geo-วิศวกรรม สามารถฆ่าคนนับพันล้าน

<hr style="color:#FFFFFF; background-color:#FFFFFF" size="1"> ภูมิศาสตร์วิศวกรรม เป็นโครงการการปกครองควบคุมสภาพ<wbr>อากาศที่อาจจะใช้เป็นอาวุธคุกคา<wbr>มชีวิตของคนนับพันล้าน ทฤษฏีการทำให้โลกร้อน ใช้ความอดอยากของพลโลก เพื่อควบคุมจัดการในการก้าวขึ้น<wbr>เป็นรัฐบาลโลก

บิลเกตส์ 'เป็นคนที่กระตือรือร้นลดจำนวนป<wbr>ระชากรที่สนับสนุนเรื่องนี้ http://www.morphcity.com/home/121-s...people&usg=ALkJrhibjA88RvRSQpFP_OHPu6hkftBj-w